Recently, I was in an educational webinar and the educator mentioned salicylic acid is FDA approved for treating acne, whereas mandelic acid is not. I have heard a lot of discourse online about mandelic acid being the best choice for treating acne, so I wanted to do some research myself.
Salicylic acid is a BHA or a “lipid loving” ingredient. BHA’s are attracted to oil and penetrate deep into the skin. This works great for acne since acne is cause by trapped oil and debris in the pores of the skin. Salicylic acid can have a deeper affect on the skin with acne because of this reason.
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Mandelic acid is an AHA, or a gentler exfoliating ingredient, but it is known for killing bacteria. Mandelic acid is best for people who experience skin sensitivity easily when using skincare products.
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Many studies I have found have combined salicylic acid and mandelic acid together for the treatment of acne. The International Journal of Research in Engineering, Science and Management found the combination of AHAs, BHAs and PHAs is the most beneficial for treating acne.
However the Clinical Dermatology Review found that salicylic acid was more effective than mandelic acid in treating acne, but salicylic acid had more side effects. In this study, it is noted there is not much research about the use of mandelic acid for acne. Could this be the reason for a lack of FDA approval of mandelic acid for acne?
In conclusion, I think both ingredients are effective in treating acne, but choosing the right treatment plan is based on the clients skin tolerance and condition. I would choose a salicylic acid treatment for someone with moderate to severe acne and their skin is tolerable of skincare treatments. Whereas, I would choose a mandelic acid treatment plan for someone who has acneic sensitive skin. Both ingredients if appropriate.
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